9:32 PM - A Season Of Sheer Nonsense
All over the world
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lv shoes,PITCH A TENT AND SOONER OR Later the circus will come
to town. Last week it arrived in New York. This wasn't Ringling
Brothers, but the fashion circus--six days of spring collections by
Seventh Avenue's excellent, near-great and not-so-great designers,
who, for your initial time, showed their wares in a single venue,
two billowing tents setup in the shadow of the New York Public
Library. For an industry beset by recession and lately bereft of
design, the tents had been the 1 certifiable hit with the season.
ããFor all of the
self-congratulation, the Americans' unprecedented display of unity
is a measure of just how much the $64 billion-a-year women's style
business is smarting. Financially, so many merchants have cut back
or gone out of business in the final five many years that only 50
main department shops and specialty stores within the Usa
nonetheless carry couture-level clothes. Stylistically, Europeans
this kind of as Giorgio Armani and Karl Lagerfeld pose stiff
competitors. But until now, New York's fractious fashionites
snubbed all attempts at unity. Business is tough, which means you
need to go the additional mile to obtain the press, which gets you
to the buyers, which gets you to the consumer, which is the bottom
line, stated Fern Mallis, executive director of the Council of
Style Designers of America and also the driving force behind the
shows.But this is Seventh Avenue and nothing--especially
unity--comes cheap. Because models account for 70 % of display
expenses, designers suggested slashing charges from $750 an hour
(that is ten grand each day) to a mere $250. Modelgate erupted.
Agencies threatened to walk! Designers threatened to complete
without! Lastly, each sides air-kissed and agreed to a $250-to-$700
sliding scale. As if to tweak the muses, Calvin Klein populated his
lower-priced CK display with real women. But superstars abounded,
often unrecognizable in nose rings and greasy Eurotrashy hair.The
theatrics had been a welcome diversion in the clothes. Taking their
cue from Europe, the new Yorkers showed serious deconstruction.
Slip dresses had been sheer enough to reveal models' G-strings.
Babydoll looks reigned. Sweaters barely covered bosoms, and skirt
hems skimmed fannies, not knees. There were oases: Ralph Lauren's
new, lower-priced line, called Ralph, won as many raves as his
Asian-inspired couture collection. And Oscar de la Renta's ladylike
suits brought a sigh of relief in the
ladies-who-wouldn't-lunch-in-a-slip-dress. However the week's most
anticipated show disappointed: Richard Tyler, who produced a name
in L.A. designing knockout jackets for celebs like Julia Roberts,
debuted a new collection for Anne Klein that was so gamine it
missed the sportswear spirit that made the 25-year-old house so
successful.The biggest puzzle was how clothing so unabashedly
sexual are supposed to match inside a culture struggling with
sexual harassment within the workplace. Does anyone really expect
grown ladies to don gauzy child dolls? Merchants insist the bedroom
will not invade the boardroom. It requires several seasons for
[high fashion] to trickle down towards the mainstream, says Neiman
Marcus fashion director Joan Kaner. At that, it's most likely to be
as a colour, as a detail.How much does runway style matter? By
itself, not much. The priciest clothing account for maybe 1 half of
1 percent of women's wear sales--but nearly all the publicity. The
sprinkles around the ice-cream sundae of style are what drives the
remainder of the company, says Alan Millstein, editor of the Style
Network Report, a monthly newsletter for merchants. Magazine
spreads and gossip-column chatter fuel designers' far more
profitable licenses--for socks, footwear, hosiery, fragrances.
Promoting a couple of $6,000 gowns is swell; selling tons of $6
undies and $60 bottles of perfume is even much better. Still,
there's always the dream that this collection will hold the runaway
hit, the following Halston's Ultrasuede dress. Maybe that's why,
under the Large Top final week, Seventh Avenue looked much more
like the Flying Wallendas--doing it, as soon as again, without a
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